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    <description>Leed Idaho</description>
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    <pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 08:25:10 GMT</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 08:25:10 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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      <title>Advanced Framing- It requires know how, and supervision.</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;    Advanced framing is a technique that demonstrates the fact that less, truly is more. Less wood in the wall means more insulation. Less wood in the wall means a higher R-Value. Less wood means a tighter building envelope. Less wood in the wall means a more efficient use of the resource. Less wood in the wall means less waste.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;     My understanding and appreciation of advanced framing has afforded me the ability to offset the the cost of the premium spray foam insulation I use in the construction of my homes. I estimate that I eliminate up to 30% of the wood framing materials used in the construction of the homes I build, when compared to the amount of material needed to frame an equivalently sized home conventionally. On the larger homes I build rough lumber packages can exceed 100K dollars. In those cases the 30% savings can offset the cost of the entire insulation package. We are talking about substantial savings when done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;     Those who don't understand what Im talking about are probably thinking: If it requires less material, therefore saving time, material, and resources, surely everyone would adopt the techniques. The answer is simply- NOPE! The majority of the homes being constructed today do not employ advanced framing techniques. WHY?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;     Reasons why are listed below.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;1. Most builders have not dedicated the time to understand the benifits- its business as usual.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;2. Most framers have never been instructed on advanced framing techniques- the general philosophy is- If two studs are good, then four studs are better. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;3. High efficiency advanced framing techniques are dependent on high efficiency design- which requires a diversion from current design standards and a good understanding of the entire process.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;4.  Advanced framing techniques require better detailed plans with accurate, detailed and engineered drawings included in the home designs- this step is too time consuming and daunting for those who don't understand it.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;5. When the details do find there way into the building plans, the framing subcontractor has to respect and appreciate the details- and so do the parties in charge of supervising the subcontractors.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;     There are plenty of other reasons why something as simple as advanced framing is not more commonly practiced, but these are the highlights. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;     If you would like to here and or see some of the innovative ways I am addressing this issue please come and see me at one of my homes, were I can show you first hand.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>http://www.leedidaho.com/Blog/e_6/Advanced_Framing__How_important_is_it_/2008/5/AdvancedFramingItrequiresknowhowandsupervision.htm</link>
      <author>bondcampbell@mac.com</author>
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      <pubDate>Thu, 22 May 2008 21:02:00 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Daikin -Mini Split Heat Pumps</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;  Efficiency in heating and cooling comes from &lt;i&gt;control and monitoring&lt;/i&gt;.  To make a heating and cooling system function at its maximum efficiency, you must break the system down into as many small systems as economically feasible and reduce the amount of ductwork by as much as possible.     Think about it like the lights in a house. Imagine that your home only had one light switch controlling all the lights in the home. Although it would be convenient it would not be efficient. This is predominately how we heat and cool our homes. Most people go to a single thermostat on the wall and set it to a temperature that can only be monitored from that single location. Imagine the inconvenience to the occupants of the home if the analogy of the single light switch were really true.  &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;     &lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;Now imagine that the heating and cooling system functioned like the light switches in most of our current homes. Each room would have its own thermostat for the comfort of that space. The occupant would be able to adjust the temperature to their liking. If the space is not frequently used, like a guest bedroom or a formal dining room, the thermostat could be off altogether. When one bedroom has a south west exposure with large windows, and another bedroom has a north east exposure with fewer windows, wouldn't it make sense for those two spaces to have individually controlled systems. Do I even need to discuss bonus rooms and the inherent cooling problems they create- thats for another post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;       There is a lot to understand about the mechanical systems in a residential home. Most builders will not take the time to investigate and educate themselves or their clients. Most builders will follow the status quo.        Here is some brief information to check out on the type of system I prefer for the homes I build. To my clients: I am not going to force you to use systems you are not familiar or comfortable with. I will simply do my best to educate you on the benefits of the system I would chose for myself, and give you the knowledge I have accumulated through my extensive research.  &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;u&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;&lt;a target="_blank" href="http://www.daikin.com/global_ac/products/vrv/vrv2s/outline.html"&gt;Click this link -Daikin VRV II-S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/u&gt;&lt;a target="_blank" href="http://www.daikin.com/global_ac/products/vrv/vrv2s/outline.html"&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "&gt;   Space saving, Sufficient capacity, Slim design, Subtly quiet operation and Single phase power supply-based on this "5S" concept,      Daikin have remodeled the acclaimed VRV II system aiming to provide the power and compactness required by small offices and shops. Introducing the special version of the VRV II system-the VRV II-S.     Slim, compact and sufficient capacity High COP Low operation sound / Nighttime quiet operation function Connectable to up to 9 indoor units / Long piping design possible Simple wiring and piping connection / Wide operating temperature range &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>http://www.leedidaho.com/Blog/e_5/Mini_Split_Heat_Pumps_What_are_they_/2008/5/DaikinMiniSplitHeatPumps.htm</link>
      <author>bondcampbell@mac.com</author>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 10:41:00 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Photo of the Day - Conditioned Attics</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img height="292" alt="" width="585" border="0" src="http://www.leedidaho.com/Documents and Settings/9/Site Documents/Site Pictures/shapeimage_2_a.jpg" /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;b&gt;What is a conditioned attic? Why haven't I heard this term before now?&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Eliminate all attic ventilation and condition the space- the photo above is of a mini-split heat pump inside a conditioned attic. Notice the closed cell spray foam is applied to the underside of the roof sheathing.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In modern residences, the challenge of achieving a continuous air infiltration barrier and thermal insulation barrier at the interior ceiling level is especially difficult. The air barrier, used to isolate the living space from the attic, is usually the taped drywall, while the thermal barrier is the insulation placed on top of the drywall. Typically, the ceiling is not a single horizontal plane, but a series of horizontal planes, vertical planes (knee walls), and sloped planes, all intersecting to create the ceiling. Field inspections repeatedly show how the continuity of the air barrier and thermal barrier is compromised at knee walls, coffered ceilings, dropped ceilings, framed soffits or mechanical chases, recessed canister lights, fireplace flues or chimneys, and penetrations for plumbing, electrical, and space conditioning, etc. In reality, it is often impractical to try to maintain air and thermal barrier continuity at all of these locations. Air-tight recessed cannister lights rated for insulation contact, foam sealing of penetrations, and full-depth blown insulation to cover the variations in ceiling plane can help to alleviate the problems, but at significant added cost.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The most cost-effective location to both air seal and insulate the attic may be at the roof plane rather than the interior ceiling plane. Where attic insulation is placed along the underside of the roof sheathing, this has been referred to as "cathedralized" residential attic construction (Rose 1995). In "cathedralized" construction, there may still be roof plane changes that create knee wall areas, such as build-over roofs where girder trusses are used, but these are usually few and relatively easy to access. In many cases, the roof layer (sheathing, roofing paper, flashing) which provides rain-proofing can also provide air leakage control. Some additional air sealing may be necessary at roof penetrations for vents and exhaust ducts. If stucco is used for the exterior wall finish, the fascia, soffit, and rake areas can be finished with stucco as well to provide an attic that is restricted from outdoor air exchange.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Another outcome of using the roof plane to create the air and thermal barrier is that the enclosed attic space is essentially inside the conditioned space. This space can be used to locate the space conditioning equipment and the air distribution system, and possibilities for additional storage are available. Also, the mechanical systems (electrical, plumbing, HVAC) placed in the attic are left exposed and accessible in the event of the need for repair or remodeling.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;More latter -I always say trying to absorb all this information is like trying to eat an elephant, just take one small bite at a time and pretty soon..........&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>http://www.leedidaho.com/Blog/e_4/Conditioned_Attics/2008/3/PhotooftheDayConditionedAttics.htm</link>
      <author>support@neoreef.com</author>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 16 Mar 2008 13:28:00 GMT</pubDate>
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